Manpuku-ji: Where Yoshitsune's Letter Meets the Enoden

2026年8月9日 2026年8月9日

Cross the Enoden railroad crossing and a steep stone staircase comes into view straight away, purple banners snapping in the wind. Look up and the roof of the main hall peeks out beyond the temple gate, with a train cutting across the frame just in front of it. Manpuku-ji turned out to be one picture-perfect moment after another — a real treat if you like photography.

Its formal name is Ryugo-zan Manpuku-ji, a Shingon-shu Daikakuji-ha temple said to have been founded in 744 by the monk Gyoki. It's best known as the temple where Minamoto no Yoshitsune wrote the "Koshigoe Letter" (Koshigoe-jo), pleading for reconciliation with his brother Yoritomo. The weight of that history and the light rattle of the passing Enoden coexist here in a way that feels very much like Koshigoe.

Crossing the Enoden Tracks and Climbing the Stairs

Cross the Enoden tracks past a "railroad crossing" sign and a stone staircase appears straight ahead. Purple banners read "Koshigoe-jo" in Japanese, and the temple gate waiting at the top of the stairs is clearly visible even from the bottom.

The Main Hall, Framed by the Temple Gate

At the top of the stairs stands a wooden temple gate. Beyond a stone marker inscribed "Koshigoe-jo Historic Site: Manpuku-ji," the main hall lines up perfectly straight ahead. The grounds were smaller and cozier than I expected, with neatly tended pines and garden stones greeting visitors.

The Enoden Runs Right Past the Gate

Passing through the gate, I turned around and a train happened to run right past. Trains run roughly every 7 minutes combined in both directions, so a short wait is usually enough to line up the banners, the stairs, and a passing train in one frame — a shot unique to Manpuku-ji. Getting it without a tripod is part of what makes this temple so much fun to photograph.

The Dragon at the Purification Fountain

Dragon spout at the purification fountain at Manpuku-ji

The purification fountain I stopped at before worship has water pouring from a dragon's mouth — fitting, perhaps, given the temple's mountain name, "Ryugo-zan" ("Dragon Protection Mountain"). This particular dragon had an unusually commanding presence. After cleansing my hands with the ladle, I headed to the main hall.

Worshipping at the Main Hall

Pine tree and main hall roof at Manpuku-ji

A well-tended pine against the gently curved roof tiles of the main hall — a combination beautiful enough to stop me in my tracks.

Ornate interior of the main hall at Manpuku-ji

The inner sanctuary enshrining the principal image, Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha), is lined edge to edge with gold ornamentation — a far more elaborate interior than the compact grounds outside would suggest.

Four Goshuin Options, Plus Sutra Copying

According to the sign at the reception counter, goshuin here come in four varieties — Yakushi Nyorai, Kobo Daishi (Kukai), Senju Kannon, and Juichimen Kannon (300 yen each). Fittingly for a temple tied to Yoshitsune, there's also a commemorative Yoshitsune goshuin (1,000 yen). Sutra copying is available too (2,000 yen if leaving your copy at the temple, 1,500 yen to take it home) — something I'd like to come back and try with more time to spare.
I went straight for the Kobo Daishi goshuin without hesitation. I've long been drawn to Kukai as a historical figure — enough that I once made a special trip to Zentsu-ji, the head temple in Zentsuji, Kagawa, where he was born. Among books written about him, Ryotaro Shiba's Kukai no Fukei (roughly, "The Landscape of Kukai") is a particular favorite of mine. Whenever I come across Kobo Daishi's name while traveling, I can't help but put my hands together.

My Kobo Daishi goshuin, received with the main hall behind me. The characters for "Ryugo-zan" made for a nice memento of the trip.

The Koshigoe Letter: Yoshitsune's Appeal

Statues of Yoshitsune writing the Koshigoe Letter at Manpuku-ji

On the grounds stand statues of Yoshitsune with brush in hand and Benkei, in warrior's dress, watching over him. A stone monument beside them reads "Yoshitsune, the Koshigoe Letter." Yoshitsune had just played a decisive role in destroying the Taira clan, yet his brother Yoritomo's anger barred him from entering Kamakura — this letter is said to be his appeal of innocence, written from here. The temple still carefully preserves what's said to be Benkei's draft of the letter. Standing before the statues, I found myself thinking, if only briefly, about the exchange that took place here more than 800 years ago.

An Unexpected Crossover: Manpuku-ji and One Piece

One Piece-wrapped Enoden train passing Manpuku-ji

While waiting on the stairs for a train, I was caught off guard by a wood-paneled, pirate-ship-styled wrapped train pulling up. An Enoden × One Piece collaboration train rolling past a temple tied to Yoshitsune and Benkei — a coincidence, but a fitting one. Look closer and the rivalry between Yoshitsune and Yoritomo echoes the bond between Luffy, Ace, and Sabo, while Benkei's loyalty in shielding his lord recalls Zoro. Yoshitsune also famously led a naval victory at the Battle of Dan-no-ura. For a moment on Manpuku-ji's stone steps, it felt like two very different stories of "men of the sea," centuries apart, briefly crossed paths.

Beyond the Tunnel: Shichirigahama Cemetery

Colorfully painted tunnel beside Manpuku-ji leading to Shichirigahama Cemetery

Beside the grounds, I spotted a tunnel painted with a colorful mural. It leads to Kamakura Shichirigahama Cemetery — apparently built on a slope steep enough that a small monorail is installed there for visitors paying respects. A quieter side of the temple, in contrast to its lively public face.

Manpuku-ji Basics

Mountain name / sect	Ryugo-zan Manpuku-ji (Shingon-shu Daikakuji-ha)
Address	2-4-8 Koshigoe, Kamakura, Kanagawa
Phone	0467-31-3612
Hours	Approx. 9:00 AM – 4:00 PM
Admission	Free to the grounds (main hall interior: adults 200 yen, junior high students 100 yen)
Goshuin	4 varieties, 300 yen each / Yoshitsune commemorative goshuin 1,000 yen
Access	3–5 min walk from Enoden Koshigoe Station

📍 More on Manpuku-ji & Yoshitsune's Story (English, Nippon.com)

FAQ

Q. What is Manpuku-ji's principal image?

A. Yakushi Nyorai (the Medicine Buddha). It's a Shingon-shu Daikakuji-ha temple said to have been founded in 744 by the monk Gyoki.

Q. What was the Koshigoe Letter (the "Manpuku-ji incident")?

A. In 1185, after Minamoto no Yoshitsune helped destroy the Taira clan, his brother Yoritomo's anger barred him from entering Kamakura. Held at Manpuku-ji, Yoshitsune is said to have written this letter pleading his innocence. What's believed to be Benkei's draft of the letter is still kept at the temple today.

Q. I heard there was a fire at Manpuku-ji — is that true?

A. In February 2021, a fire destroyed a multipurpose facility on the grounds called "Yoshitsune-an." The main hall was unaffected, and the temple is open to visitors as usual.

Q. How do you pronounce "Manpuku-ji"?

A. It's pronounced "Man-pu-ku-ji." There are temples with the same name elsewhere in Japan, but this one in Koshigoe is known specifically for its ties to Minamoto no Yoshitsune.

Summary

Manpuku-ji temple gate with an Enoden train passing

The temple gate seen from the bottom of the stairs, an Enoden train rattling past right in front of you, and 800-year-old history captured in the Koshigoe Letter — Manpuku-ji packs both photogenic moments and historical depth into a short visit. It's just a short walk from Koshigoe Station, so if you're walking around Koshigoe, it's well worth crossing the tracks and climbing these stairs.

STATIONKoshigoe Station: Where the Enoden Runs Down the Middle of the Road

Koshigoe Station, the nearest stop to Manpuku-ji, where the Enoden runs alongside the road.